Ingredient profile: Sodium Laurel Sulfate

SLS has a bad reputation as a skin and haircare ingredient and it deserves it, but not for the reasons you may have heard. At one point there was a widespread internet rumor that SLS caused cancer, causing many health conscious consumers to avoid it. The cancer connection has been pretty conclusively disproven. However, I still avoid SLS, and it's one of the major reasons why I have begun to read labels. Why? Because SLS is a potent irritant. For years I thought the tight itchy feeling I had after showering was normal, and always made sure to apply moisturizer after showering or washing my hands to make my skin feel comfortable again. But after switching to SLS-free shower gel that 'normal' feeling is totally gone. Switching to SLS free shampoo also eliminated all the flakes on my scalp, so I can now skip the dandruff shampoo I used to use twice a week.

Should you avoid SLS? Because SLS is so common in soaps and shampoos, the only way to determine whether it triggers skin problems for you is to use products without SLS for a while, then go back to your old products and see if there is a reaction. There are lots of alternatives, but even many natural companies use SLS, so you'll need to read labels. You should especially consider cutting SLS out of your skin care if you have exzema, dandruff, or any problems with redness on your face. SLS is also commonly used in toothpaste (including Tom's of Maine), so consider switching toothpastes if you are prone to canker sores. You may also see Sodium Laureth Sulfate on labels. This is another detergent similar to SLS. It is considered to be slightly gentler than SLS, but I still find my skin does better without it.

What to use instead:
Oil based soaps are a good option for hand and shower soap. Dr. Bronner's is an old hippie standby, but many people find it drying. Pangea Organics is a promising alternative, though I haven't tried it yet. pangea (and you'll have to forgive me, but I haven't figured out how to add links yet). Nearly all handmade soap would fit in this category too.

For shampoo, many companies use Cocamidopropyl Betaine, a very gentle surfectant that I have no problems with. Like SLS and SLES, it is often described as derived from coconuts, but all three require extensive chemical manipulation, so I would not describe it as natural. I probably wouldn't choose something with this ingredient for skincare, but I use it on my hair because it gives better results than other ingredients and is able to remove styling products that more natural ingredients cannot.